Heritage, Structure and Stone! (Up Côte-des-Neiges Road, down thru Westmount, onto the Towers)

(above photo on Côte-des-Neiges Road as approaching the Escalier Trafalgar entrance to Mount Royal Park  – May 22, 2023) © WalkMontreal

WalkMontreal is pleased to bring you a beautiful heritage walk with a theme of structure and stone on the south-west side of Mount-Royal.  We will highlight some impressive landmarks and buildings, as well as searching for the locations of the old Côte-des-Neiges Toll Gate to the city, Capitulation Cottage, Trafalgar Tower and the Fort de la Montagne.  C&D from WalkMontreal will take you thru these beautiful streets both in Montreal and Westmount. Starting downtown at the corner of Côte-des-Neiges Road and Sherbrooke Street West, the walk goes north on Côte-des-Neiges, all the way to Remembrance Road, then turns back and goes thru parts of Westmount descending on Mount Pleasant and Wood avenues and then back onto Sherbrooke Street ending with the beautiful and historic Sulpician Towers.

C&D did this walk on Monday May 22, 2023 between 2:10PM and 4:35PM for a total of 2 hours and 25 minutes.  The total length was approximately 4.85KM (3 miles) It was a sunny day with a temperature of 15C (59F).

Note:  The walk is moderate to steep going up Côte-des-Neiges Road and there is some steep stair climbing at Trafalgar Avenue.

The walk starts at the intersection of Côte-des-Neiges and Sherbrooke.

Intersection of Côte-des-Neiges and Sherbrooke.

We now begin the walk going north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.  This beautiful brownstone building was the Stanley Bagg Clark House, built in 1891.

At 3465 Côte-des-Neiges Road, we find the Laurentian Apartments, built in 1913.

The Laurentian Apartments, built in 1913.

Continue up Côte-des-Neiges Road, this is going to be a good walk !

The Regency, at 3555 Côte-des-Neiges Road, built in 1965.

Taking a look back down the road at corner of Seaforth Avenue.

Looking back down as we walk upwards.

Looking back down from the corner of Docteur-Penfield Avenue.

Continue to walk upwards on Côte-des-Neiges.

Off to the left, the gray building is The Sacred Heart School, built in 1928.

Intersection of Côte-des-Neiges and Pine Avenue.

The Montreal General Hospital, built in 1965.

The Montreal General Hospital, built in 1965.

Cedar Avenue, some brick homes with the Montreal General Hospital in the background.

Taking a look back at the Montreal skyline.

Intersection of Côte-des-Neiges and Cedar Avenue.

Cedar Avenue

Some stone work on the edge of Mount Royal Park where Côte-des-Neiges and Cedar meet.

Continue walking.  These are initial steps into Mount Royal Park where Côte-des-Neiges and Cedar meet. You can see The Gleneagles complex in distance.

The Gleneagles Apartments, 3940 to 3946 Côte-des-Neiges Road, built in 1929.

The Gleneagles Apartments, 3940 to 3946 Côte-des-Neiges Road, built in 1929.

The Gleneagles Apartments (The Gazette – April 11, 1930).

Looking back the way we came, with city skyline.

The Sainte Lawrence River can be seen with the Champlain Bridge.

Looking back the way we came.

Mount Royal Park is on the right.

The 165 Côte-des-Neiges bus.

The stone wall between the Gleneagles and The Trafalgar.

The stone wall between the Gleneagles and The Trafalgar.

The gate and stone wall between the Gleneagles and The Trafalgar.

Ahead on the right are the Escalier Trafalgar, stairs leading to Mount Royal Park.

Between the Gleneagles and Trafalgar buildings are two beautiful old homes.  The Thompson House on the left, built in 1907 and the Sparrow House on the right, built in 1910.  They are at 3956 and 3970 Côte-des-Neiges Road respectively.  There is a gate here for a reason, so lets respect it.

Now we come to The Trafalgar building, at 3980 Côte-des-Neiges Road, built in 1931.

The Trafalgar building, at 3980 Côte-des-Neiges Road, built in 1931.

Intersection of Le Boulevard and Côte-des-Neiges Road.

We are going to cross over and walk back down to the Escalier Trafalgar stairs.

Nice view looking back at The Gleneagles.

Great vintage photo here by Harry Sutcliffe in 1932 (Source: McCord Museum, Object #: M2011.64.2.3.343).

The Trafalgar building.

We are at the Escalier Trafalgar stairs now.

These stairs will take you into Mount Royal Park.

These stairs will take you into Mount Royal Park.

Nice view from the Trafalgar stairs.

The Trafalgar.

So back in the 1800’s there was a toll gate to the city of Montreal on Côte-des-Neiges Road for travelers coming via the north or west to the city on this road. We wondered what it would look like, who would be manning this toll gate and exactly where was it.  Well, we did some research and we think we are able to answer these questions.

Below is a map of Mount Royal Park, pages 66 & 67 from Atlas of the city and island of Montreal (Hopkins, H.W), Provincial Surveying and Pub. Co., 1879. (Source: BANQ).

Below excerpt from above map highlights where the toll-gate was located.  Green arrow is corner of Côte-des-Neiges and Pine. The purple arrow shows the city line, which was likely the north-west boundary of the Sulpician farm and property.  We believe the red arrow shows us The Trafalgar Lodge (Albert Furness House). And the blue arrow points directly to the toll gate marked on the map.  So the toll gate was between the Trafalgar Lodge and the city line, which we believe puts it somewhere right near the Escalier Trafalgar stairs.

Below is a beautiful watercolour over pencil, dated January 10 1882, by artist Arthur Elliot.

It is titled “Toll Gate Côte-des-Neiges”. (Source: Library and Archives Canada, Reference # R9266, Item ID# 3017308).

So we now know where the toll gate stood and what it looked like, but who was the gate keeper?  Could they be the figure in the painting standing by the entrance?  We had found out that a Crimean War veteran by the name of James Quinn was the gate keeper at one time.  Could this figure in Arthur Elliot’s painting be James Quinn?

Below is a photo by William Notman in 1859 titled,  “Montreal, from below Côte des Neiges toll gate, QC, 1859”.  Compare the fence in this photo with the painting above. (Source: McCord Museum, Object #: N-0000.193.62.1).

Lets continue on walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

Walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

Walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

Looking back from where we came.

Walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

Across the street you can see the Trafalgar Lodge.  But we will see it up close when we double-back.

Across the street you can see the Trafalgar Lodge.  But we will see it up close when we double-back.

So keep walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

Walking north on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

We are now arriving at the corner of Remembrance Road.  On the west side you will see an old pumping station.

The pumping station, at 4160 Côte-des-Neiges Road,  was built in 1938.

On the east side of Côte-des-Neiges Road, you will see the Côte-des-Neiges Armoury, at 4185 Côte des Neiges, built in 1934.

The armoury houses the Royal Canadian Hussars and the 2nd Field Artillery, both primary reserve regiments within the Canadian Armed Forces.

Côte-des-Neiges Armoury.

Côte-des-Neiges Armoury.

West side with the pumping station.

We will not go futhur than this intersection:  Belvedere Road on the left, Côte-des-Neiges Road in middle, and Remembrance Road off to the right.

So why are we interested in this area where the pumping house is?   Well, this is said to be the spot where “Capitulation Cottage” had once stood.  In September of 1760, advancing British armies, had made their way onto the island of Montreal preparing an assault on the small town of Montreal.  On the 8th of September 1760, the capitulation of Montreal was signed here by General Jeffery Amherst of the British army and the Governor of New France, Pierre de Rigaud de Vaudreuil de Cavagnial.

Below is a sketch of Capitulation Cottage by Alfred Sandham – published in the Canadian Illustrated News (April 13, 1872) (Source: Library and Archives Canada Item#: 2551).

Below is a painting of Capitulation Cottage by Henry Richard S. Bunnett, dated 1885-1889 (Source: McCord Museum, Object #: M2000.75.26).

Below is a photo of the ruins of Capitulation Cottage from 1892 (Source: BANQ  creator: Sabiston Photo, Eng.)

The first sketch above appears to show a wooden log style cabin, while the painting and the photo clearly shows stone ruins of the cottage.  We believe that behind the wooden log house is a second structure, the one made of stone.  Oh well, nothing left of it, so….

Lets turn around and head back the way we came.

Walking south now on Côte-des-Neiges Road.

At Hill Park Circle, cross over to the west side of Côte-des-Neiges.

We now can get a good look at The Trafalgar Lodge, at 3021 to 3025 Trafalgar Avenue.  Built originally for Albert Furness (Furniss ?) in 1848.

Here is a nice sketch of Trafalgar in 1970 by John Collins (Source: The Gazette May 30, 1970).

The Trafalgar Lodge.

The Trafalgar Lodge.

Intersection of Côte des Neiges and Trafalgar Avenue.

The Trafalgar Lodge.

We will now walk west on Trafalgar Avenue.

We are now going to be looking for where the Trafalgar Tower once stood and see if any remnants of it remain.

The Trafalgar Tower was built in the early 1800’s by John Ogilvy, a fur trader who had a country estate in this area.  John Ogilvy was one of the donors who helped fund the erection in 1809 of Nelson’s Column in Place Jacques-Cartier in the old city of Montreal in commemoration of Admiral Horatio Nelson who led British naval forces against French and Spanish naval forces during The Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

John Ogilvy decided to build a tower of his own and he chose the high vantage point in this area that today is on Belvedere Circle.  Ogilvy built a stone tower somewhere on this high point, placed a small cannon on its roof and every year on the anniversary of The Battle of Trafalgar (October 21st), he fired his cannon.  The Trafalgar Tower continued on thru the 19th century slowly falling apart.  The ruins of this tower were still evident by the late 1920’s.

Oh…something else that may be of interest….in this very area, plans were being drawn up to establish a cemetery here in 1846 and it was to be called The Trafalgar Mount Cemetery.  Eventually, the plans were abandoned as the land was deemed not suitable.  But, there was one burial that did take place that year of 1846.

Anyhow, lets continue to look for this Trafalgar Tower, shall we?

Keep walking along Trafalgar Avenue for two streets.

We now arrive at Trafalgar Road.  On the left, Trafalgar Avenue continues up to a cul-de-sac.

On the right, Trafalgar Road brings us to a flight of stairs.

We are going to briefly continue up Trafalgar Avenue.

Trafalgar Avenue.

And on Trafalgar Avenue is a wooded hill with some stones.

The stones appear to have been used as a retaining wall for this hill.

Could these stones be from The Trafalgar Tower?  Very possible as modern construction of homes above on the hill were taking place, the remnants of the tower were being repurposed and used in this area.  Some stones of Ogilvy’s tower could be in someone’s garden, or stone wall, etc…

Let’s turn around and head back to the intersection of Trafalgar Avenue and Trafalgar Road.

We are now going to ascend these stairs, which will take us up to Malcolm Road.

Here are the stairs, they are steep.

Take your time…

We come to level ground…but more stairs up ahead…

Here we go again…

…almost done…

And we are at the top of the stairs now.

Looking back down on where we came up.

The stairs come out at Malcolm Road.

From Malcolm Road, walk up Trafalgar Heights Road.

We now come to Belvedere Circle (we are still in Montreal).

From Belvedere Circle you can see that there are some fabulous views.

Another great view of the Saint Lawrence River.

Between the homes, you can capture some good views beyond.

The very top of Belvedere Circle.

Here is an image of Trafalgar Tower (Source: Canadiana Magazine March 1890, Vol.2 No.3, editor: W J.White)

On pages 40 and 41 is this description:   “Have you ever gone as far as the “Priest’s Fort” on the Mountain?  Have you sometimes struck into the sombre thicket which borders on the southwest, the hill leading to Cote des Neiges ? And if you have been ever so little curious in examining the picturesque landscape, the valleys which are spread out fresh and blooming before your eyes, the rocks which here and there frown threateningly above your head; you must have noticed the grey spot which appears in the distance, on the left, upon the green background of one side of the mountain. Well, that spot which in the distance appears like a small point, is a little tower, gothic in style…”

If John Ogilvy built his Trafalgar Tower up here, it would make sense.  He would have a great vantage point, excellent views of the city below to the east, the Saint Lawrence River and the Eastern Townships beyond.

Let’s continue on and walk down Belvedere Circle to Belvedere Road and head south.  You are now in Westmount.

Walking south and descending Belvedere Road.

Stone wall.

Continue on Belvedere Road.

When you get to the intersection of Sunnyside Avenue, turn left and continue walking down Belvedere Road.

Coming down Belvedere Road.

Intersection of Belvedere Road and Sunnyside Avenue.

Intersection of Belvedere Road and Sunnyside Avenue.

Follow the stone wall.

Continue on down…

Beautiful walk down Belvedere Road…stone wall on both sides.

Almost there…

We arrive at intersection of Belvedere Road and The Boulevard.

We will turn right and walk west on The Boulevard.

Walking west on The Boulevard.

When you get to Mount Pleasant Avenue, turn left and walk south.

Walking south on Mount Pleasant Avenue.  Enjoy the walk thru this part of Westmount, its beautiful!

Walking south on Mount Pleasant Avenue.

Walking south on Mount Pleasant Avenue.

Walking south on Mount Pleasant Avenue.

We come to the intersection of Mount Pleasant Avenue and St. Sulpice Road.  We are going to walk down the stairs straight ahead of us.

Walk down these stairs off St. Sulpice Road.

Walk down these stairs off St. Sulpice Road.

Still descending…

We are coming to a nice stone landing here,,,

From here you can see some rooftops and Westmount Square building in the distance.

Lamppost on the stone landing.

View over the rooftops.

Descending the stairs.

Almost there.

The stone stairways we are coming down from.

And we are now at street level with De Lavigne Road.

The stone stairways as seen from De Lavigne Road.

Lets cross the street and continue on down another flight of stairs.  Remember, we are descending the south-western slope of Mount Royal.

So we now embark on some wooden stairs.

They lead to a walkway…

Before meeting a set of concrete stairs.

These steps will bring us to street level with Holton and Wood avenues.

Walk south on Wood Avenue.

Walking south on Wood Avenue.

Continue down Wood Avenue, some beautiful architecture can be seen.

Wood Avenue and Victorian architecture.

Wood Avenue will take us to Queen Elizabeth Gardens.

The Queen Elizabeth Gardens.

Some trees were planted here in 1953 in commemoration of the coronation of Elizabeth ll.

Walking thru the Queen Elizabeth Gardens toward Sherbrooke Street.

Approaching the intersection of Sherbrooke Street and Vignal Avenue.

Dawson College, formerly the Mother House – Maison Mère des Soeurs de la Congrégation Notre-Dame, 3040 Sherbrooke Street West, built in 1905-1908.

The dome on the Mother House – Maison Mère des Soeurs de la Congrégation Notre-Dame.

The dome with Mary and Jesus on the Mother House – Maison Mère des Soeurs de la Congrégation Notre-Dame.

The Mother House – Maison Mère des Soeurs de la Congrégation Notre-Dame.

The Mother House –  postcard circa 1904-1915 (Source:  BANQ Paris :Neobromure A. Breger frères).

The Mother House – Maison Mère des Soeurs de la Congrégation Notre-Dame.

Dawson College makes its home in the Mother House.  Dawson College is the largest CEGEP in Quebec.

Continue walking east on Sherbrooke Street, past Atwater Avenue, and you will see the Congrégation de Notre-Dame, at 2330 Sherbrooke Street West, built in 1913.

Congrégation de Notre-Dame, at 2330 Sherbrooke Street West, built in 1913.

Congrégation de Notre-Dame, at 2330 Sherbrooke Street West, built in 1913.

Continue walking east on Sherbrooke Street. The Haddon Hall Apartments can be seen here on the right.

Continue to walk east on the north side of Sherbrooke Street.  There is a large area of land behind this stone wall that was once the location of the Fort de la Montagne (a.k.a. Le Fort des Messieurs) built in 1685, that had housed a Sulpician missionary.  Two towers were built in 1694 on this land.  The fort was eventually dismantled and Le Collège de Montréal was built on the grounds between 1854-1857.  The Sulpician land was also referred to as “Priest’s Farm”.  The two towers remain today.

Below map shows the size of this land in 1879; from Atlas of the city and island of Montreal (Hopkins, H.W), Provincial Surveying and Pub. Co., 1879. (Source: BANQ).

The Sulpician land is bordered by the “City Line”, “Elm Ave.”,  “Cote Des Neiges” and “Sherbrooke”.

The two towers are 13 metres high (43 feet).

The Sulpician land was also referred to as “Priest’s Farm”.

Below is a photo titled:  “Priests Farm”, Montreal College, Sherbrooke Street, Montreal, QC, about 1859″, by William Notman (Source: McCord Museum Object #: N-0000.193.60.2)

Le Collège de Montréal was built on the grounds between 1854-1857, at 1931 Sherbrooke Street West.

Sulpician Tower, built in 1694.

Sulpician Tower, built in 1694.

Sulpician Tower, built in 1694.

Sulpician Tower, built in 1694.

Grand Séminaire de Montréal.

The cross atop Grand Séminaire de Montréal.

The Sulpician Towers.

Sulpician Tower with the Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Sulpician Tower with the Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Sulpician Tower.

Grand séminaire de Montréal.

Sulpician Towers.

Below is an excerpt from an 1846 map by James Cane, titled “Topographical and pictorial map of the city of Montreal” (Source: BANQ).

You can see where it is marked “Priests Farm” on the left.  Above that is the seminary and the two towers on Sherbrooke Street.  All those trees behind it are apple orchards.  The Sulpician’s had large apple orchards and grew a particularly delightful one called  “La Fameuse” (later known also as the snow apple).  These orchards have vanished now, but, there could still be a few apple trees out there in someone’s back yard or on a secluded part of Mount Royal that are descendants of these orchards.

Below image is a watercolour dated 1839 titled “Montreal from the priests farm” – attributed to Philip John Bainbrigge (Source: McCord Museum Object#: M982.531.1)

This is an excellent image as it shows the view as seen from the south-west side of Mount Royal, the area that we basically encircled on the walk up Côte-des-Neiges Road and then down thru parts of Westmount.  This is the Sulpician farm that is in between that area, but, the artist is looking down from a vantage point. You can see the Saint Lawrence River with the Montérégie region and Eastern Townships beyond.  In the center right are the Sulpician buildings where both towers are evident as well. It shows us a pasture with livestock, old trees and a sombre thicket.

This concludes the walk.  We hope you enjoyed it as much as we did, as well as a little bit of history added in.

WalkMontreal is a joint effort by C&D to learn, walk and share the experience.