This walk takes us thru the Viger Square area, where we will see statues, old Châteauesque and Beaux-Arts style buildings, a world famous brewery, the Jacques Cartier Bridge from underneath, a charming passage way between several streets and we will search for the vanished neigbourhood of Le Faubourg à m’lasse. This is a working class area that was struggling economically and was in decline, and much like other areas of Montreal in the late 1950’s, 1960’s and early 1970’s, demolition was prescribed. Whether it was in the name of urban renewal, or preparation for a World’s Fair or a mega project to build a huge media center, an old inner core area such as Le Faubourg à m’lasse had its fate sealed about 60 years ago. Le Faubourg à m’lasse or The Molasses District, was very close to the docks where shipments of molasses arrived from Barbados. Urban legend has it that a longshoreman would break open a barrel of newly arrived molasses and the local women would be waiting to help themselves. Sounds sweet, so lets stick with this explanation.
We did this walk on Saturday July 24, 2021 between 9:25AM and 11:56AM (total was 2 hours and 31 minutes). The temperature ranged from 22C (72F) to 27C (80F) – sunny and very warm. The total distance was 4.15KM (2.8M). The terrain is mostly flat and not difficult.
***Caution*** Be aware that this area has a lot of traffic due to the Ville Marie Expressway and particularly along Viger, Saint-Antoine and Notre-Dame. There is also a large presence of trucks with shipping containers on Notre-Dame Street due to the proximity of the Port of Montreal. So please look both ways when crossing streets or taking photos.
Below Google map shows highlighted points of interest on the walking route.
- START: corner of Viger and Saint-Denis (CHUM super hospital and Chenier Monument.
- corner of Berri and Saint-Antoine East (former Viger hotel and train station).
- Beaudry Tunnel.
- former Caserne No. 7.
- corner Montcalm and Notre-Dame East (former Maison Marguerite Hay).
- Molson Brewing Company.
- former Craig Pumping Station.
- Pied-du-Courant Prison.
- corner rue Dorion and rue Erie.
- SS Peter and Paul Orthodox Church.
- Passage Sainte-Rose Street.
- Church of St. Peter the Apostle.
- corner rue Wolfe and avenue Viger.
- 535 avenue Viger.
- 429 avenue Viger.
- FINISH: Metro Champ-de-Mars.
We start here at the corner of Viger and Saint-Denis. The CHUM super hospital occupies this area, and they incorporated the spire of the Holy Trinity Church into its exterior.
The CHUM (Centre hospitalier de l’Université de Montréal) on Saint-Denis Street..
In front of the hospital, facing east towards Viger Square is the Chénier Monument.
Old postcard showing Saint-Denis, with Chénier Monument.
Jean-Olivier Chénier, commanded Patriote forces during the Battle of Saint-Eustache in 1837.
The statue and monument were created in 1891 by Alfonso Pelzer.
Walk south on Saint-Denis to Saint-Antoine and head east one block to Berri and you will see the Châteauesque style Viger Hotel and Train station (a.k.a. Place Viger).
Built in 1898, it is no longer a hotel or train station, it has office and residential space.
Place Viger.
Viger Hotel and train station – circa 1900 (credit BANQ).
Across the street is Viger Square. Originally had fountains and gardens, it was destroyed in the 1970’s to build the Ville-Marie Expressway below it. It was rebuilt as a concrete roof to the expressway underneath it.
Today the City of Montreal is rebuilding parts of Viger Square. It was inaugurated in 1860.
Aerial photo from 1927 showing Viger Square to the left. There were fountains ! What happened to these fountains?
Walk east on Saint-Antoine, you will see the CBC Radio-Canada complex appear.
The CBC Radio-Canada complex.
When you come to these signs on Saint-Antoine, stay to your right on the sidewalk.
If you look back across the expressway, you will see the parking lot of CBC Radio-Canada. This is where Le Faubourg à m’lasse once stood.
As you round the corner on Saint-Antoine to Notre-Dame Street, you will pass the Beaudry Tunnel. It was built in late 1800’s, as a shortcut down to the docks and waterfront. It’s now sealed off.
Once on Notre-Dame Street, just around the bend is an old former Fire Station – Caserne No. 7 built in 1898.
Walk one street back west to Montcalm Street , and you will find this beauty of a structure. The Maison Marguerite Hay, built in 1853.
Maison Marguerite Hay is a private dwelling, so please do not knock on the door.
Turn around and head back east on Notre-Dame Street.
You will pass right by the massive Molson Brewery.
This is building added upon building for Molson’s, takes up the whole south side of Notre-Dame Street here.
Molson Brewery.
Molson Brewery, founded in 1786, is the oldest brewery in North America.
Molson Brewery (credit BANQ) – circa 1900.
There is a little resting spot across the street from the brewery with a plaque.
The “Accomodation”, was Canada’s first steamboat, built for Molson’s in 1809.
Continue on Notre-Dame Street heading east and you will see the Jacques Cartier Bridge.
Just underneath the bridge is former Craig Pumping Station, built in 1887.
Underneath the Jacques Cartier Bridge.
The Jacques Cartier Bridge, construction started in 1925 and was opened to the public in 1930.
The Jacques Cartier Bridge.
Postcard – Jacques Cartier Bridge- 1930’s. Massive bridge spanning the St. Lawrence River. Molson Brewery can be seen top left.
Corner of Notre-Dame Street East and Avenue de Lorimier.
Pied-du-Courant Prison, built in 1835, it closed in 1912. Today it is a museum.
Pied-du-Courant Prison.
Pied-du-Courant Prison.
Monument aux Patriotes is on the grounds.
Monument aux Patriotes, created by Alfred Laliberté in 1926.
Monument aux Patriotes.
Looking back on the Jacques Cartier Bridge as it spans the St. Lawrence River in the rear.
Walk north on de Lorimier to René Lévesque Boulevard.
Walk back west on René Lévesque Boulevard.
One block later, walk south on Rue Dorion. You will need to cross over René Lévesque Blvd.
Rue Dorion, still standing and a survivor of Le Faubourg à m’lasse when initial land was cleared in 1920’s for The Jacques Cartier Bridge.
Corner of Rue Dorion and Rue Érié,
Rue Érié, looking east.
Behind Rue Érié and Rue Dorion is a rough parking area where industry once stood.
This parking lot was also part of the original Le Faubourg à m’lasse. CBC building can be seen in distance.
Make your way back to René Lévesque Blvd to the corner of Papineau.
Continue to the corner of Rue de Champlain and you will see the St. Peter and Saint Paul Russian Orthodox Church.
St. Peter and Saint Paul Russian Orthodox Church
Walk north on Rue de Champlain.
Rue de Champlain.
When you get to Rue Sainte-Rose, we will turn left and head west on this charming street.
Rue Sainte-Rose, more like a passageway.
Continue on Sainte-Rose and cross over Rue Alexandre-DeSève.
Continue walking west on this passage way of Rue Sainte-Rose.
Rue Sainte-Rose.
Rue Sainte-Rose.
Rue Sainte-Rose crossing Rue Plessis.
Beautiful streets in this area, this is Rue Plessis that we just crossed.
The Sainte-Rose passageway continues.
Now crossing Rue Panet.
Intersection of Sainte-Rose and Panet.
Looking south on Rue Panet.
Rue Sainte-Rose becomes more familiar as an actual street now.
Continue on Sainte-Rose until Visitation Street and walk south.
At the corner of Visitation and René Lévesque Blvd is Église Saint-Pierre-Apôtre (The Church of St. Peter the Apostle) – built 1853.
The spire is so tall, we have to cross René Lévesque Blvd to get a good picture of the church.
René Lévesque Blvd – look both ways for cars.
Église Saint-Pierre-Apôtre (The Church of St. Peter the Apostle).
Walk west on René Lévesque Blvd to the corner of Rue Wolfe.
Walk south on Rue Wolfe, to your left is the CBC Radio Canada complex and its parking lot.
Walk down to the corners of Wolfe and Viger, and look across the CBC Radio Canada complex and its parking lot.
This is where Le Faubourg à m’lasse (The Molasses District) once stood and was destroyed in 1963.
Panoramic view.
The destruction of Le Faubourg à m’lasse (the Molasses District) begins in 1963 (credit Archives Montreal).
The destruction of Le Faubourg à m’lasse (the Molasses District) begins in 1963 (credit Archives Montreal).
The destruction of Le Faubourg à m’lasse (the Molasses District) begins in 1963 (credit Archives Montreal).
Le Faubourg à m’lasse (the Molasses District). Corner of Wolfe and de la Gauchetière – early 1960’s (credit Archives Montreal).
Le Faubourg à m’lasse (the Molasses District). Corner of Bonaparte and Visitation- early 1960’s (credit Archives Montreal).
Head west on Viger Avenue. You can see the sunken Ville-Marie Expressway in the median.
Continue on Viger, and Viger Square will start to appear in the median. The expressway goes right below it.
Beautiful homes on north side of Viger Avenue.
Continue walking west on Viger, and at the corner of St. Hubert Street, you will see Place Viger on your left.
And on the north-west corner of Viger and St. Hubert is this beautiful Beaux-Arts building built in 1908-1910 at 535 Viger.
535 Viger.
535 Viger.
429 Viger and 419-427 Viger.
Union Française building at 429 Viger- built in 1867, with beautiful statues in the front.
Jeanne D’Arc (Joan of Arc) by André Vermare in 1909.
Marianne by Paul Chevré in 1913.
Jeanne D’Arc (Joan of Arc) by André Vermare in 1909.
Marianne by Paul Chevré in 1913.
419-427 Viger – built 1875.
We are back at the corner of Viger and Saint-Denis, where we started. But the walk doesn’t end here…
Walk over one more block to Champ-de-Mars Metro station.
Champ-de-Mars Metro station.
You can get a great view of Montreal from here….
but, what we wanted to show you were the stained glass windows of the Champ-de-Mars Metro station.
These beautiful windows were made in 1968 by Marcelle Ferron. We see these windows almost futuristic in design.
This concludes the walk. We hope that you can get out and stretch your legs, walk these streets and take in the history of this area.
Cities are ever changing and we can only guess what this will look like 60 years into the future.
Below map from 1951 highlighting the area we walked.
Map from the City of Montreal, Public Works, titled “Préparé à l’expropriation” – dated 19 February 1963. (credit Archives of Montreal). It details the entire area, it’s dwellings and addresses.
In total, approximately 5,000 residents were evicted and dispersed. their homes destroyed ,dozens of restaurants, corner stores, and upwards of 20 factory industries closed and torn down.
So…what about the urban legend as to why this area is called Le Faubourg à m’lasse. Was there actually molasses here? You bet there was !
Here are barrels of Barbados molasses unloaded and waiting on the docks. Shed 25 is to the left and the Jacques Cartier bridge to the right. Year is 1951. (credit The Gazette/ Ed O’Neil)
Below excerpt from a map of Montreal Harbour (circa 1940). Green arrow is Viger Square, blue arrow shows Shed 25 and red circle is Le Faubourg à m’lasse.
This is an amazing and informative tour!! I feel like I am there… walking these streets and gazing at these structures and wondering about their history, their stories! Love the maps and photos and especially the narrative!! We’ll done C&D!!👏👏🌿💕
A very interesting walk. I was lucky enough to see a service at St Peter and St Paul church where it appeared both Russians and Ukrainians were worshipping peacefully together. If you have some spare time I would recommend visiting the interior of The National Archives Building. A wonderful cast iron staircase and balconies with wave pattern interlocking brown and orange work desks. Quite unique. Thank you once again for the time you have taken to put this walk together.
Thank you Alan. Next time we are in the area we will take a visit to The National Archives Building as you mention. We really enjoyed this walk and look forward to seeing the final outcome of Viger Square once complete as well.
I have read that, before building their own church on Iberville, Ukrainian Catholics sometimes celebrated Divine Liturgy in a church that used to be in the vicinity of the Radio Canada building (ie. Faubourg de m’lasse). It may have belonged to a religious order. I am wondering if this church is the one pictured at the bottom of https://stmichaelmontreal.ca/about/
Hello Roman, This is good info, thank you for sharing with us. Maybe some of our viewers can help on this. Thank you for visiting WalkMontreal! C & D.